How to Build Your Own Cornhole Boards, Step by Step
A regulation-size pair of cornhole boards is a plain woodworking project: a 2×4 frame, a plywood top, a 6-inch hole and folding legs. This guide gives you the tools, the shopping list, the exact cut list and the order to build in. For the official numbers themselves, our dimension guides stay the reference — we link to them wherever a figure needs checking.
What You’re Building
Each board is a rectangular frame of 2×4s standing on edge, a sheet of plywood glued and screwed on top, a hole cut near the back end, and a pair of legs that fold flat under the back. The front edge simply rests on the ground, so there are no front legs to make.
The cut list below builds to the standard figures: a 48 × 24 inch board, a 6-inch hole centered 9 inches from the back edge, a back edge 12 inches off the ground and a front edge 3 to 4 inches up. We don’t repeat the tolerances or the differences between rulebooks here — the cornhole board dimensions guide has them, and the hole size, board height and board angle guides go deeper on each one.
Tools You Need
Essential
- Tape measure, pencil and a speed square or framing square
- Circular saw or miter saw for the 2×4s and the plywood
- Jigsaw for the hole
- Drill/driver, with a countersink bit and a bit sized for your leg bolts
- Two or more clamps
- Sander, with 80, 120 and 220 grit paper
- Wrench or socket for the leg hardware
- Safety glasses, hearing protection and a dust mask
Nice to have
- Router with a roundover bit, for the edges
- A compass or a nail-and-string trammel for the 6-inch circle
- A 6-inch hole saw or a router circle jig, for a cleaner hole edge
- A level, for checking the boards on the ground
- A foam roller or pad for the finish
Materials for a Pair of Boards
Quantities below cover two boards. The arithmetic in this guide uses ½-inch plywood for the top; which wood and which thickness to buy is covered in our wooden cornhole boards guide.
| Item | Quantity | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Hardwood plywood, ½ in | Two 24 × 48 in pieces | One 4 × 8 ft sheet cuts four, so a whole sheet is more than enough. Choose a smooth, sanded face. |
| 2×4 lumber, 8 ft | 4 studs | Sight down each stud in the store and pick the straight ones. |
| 3 in exterior screws | About 24 | Frame joints: two per corner and two per brace end. |
| 1½ in screws | About 60 | For the top, roughly every 6 inches around each frame. |
| Wood glue | 1 bottle | Every frame joint and the top-to-frame seam. |
| ¼ in carriage bolts, 3½ in | 4, plus a spare or two | One per leg, with a washer and a wing nut or lock nut for each. |
| Wood filler | 1 small tub | For screw heads and any gaps in the top. |
| Sandpaper | 80, 120 and 220 grit | Enough for both tops, the edges and the hole. |
| Primer, paint and clear coat | As needed | Or the finish of your choice — see step 8. |
Cornhole Board Cut List
The list is for one board — double every quantity for a pair. The letters match the plan drawing below and the build steps after it.
| Part | Qty | Stock | Cut size | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| A — Side rail | 2 | 2×4 | 48 in | The long sides of the frame. |
| B — End rail | 2 | 2×4 | 21 in | Fits between the side rails: 24 in minus two 1½ in rails. |
| C — Center brace | 1 | 2×4 | 21 in | Halfway along the frame, clear of the hole. Required cross-section backing when the top is ½ in. |
| D — Leg | 2 | 2×4 | 11½ in | Rounded top end. 12 in minus the ½ in top; see step 5. |
| E — Top | 1 | ½ in plywood | 24 × 48 in | Hole is cut before the top goes on. |
How to Cut the Lumber From Four Studs
Each board takes two 8-foot studs, and the pieces fit with room to spare for the saw kerf: from the first stud cut 48 + 21 + 21 in (90 in), and from the second 48 + 21 + 11½ + 11½ in (92 in). Cut the pair from the same four studs and you will end up with two identical boards.
For the plywood, measure your sheet before you mark it. Sheets are often a hair under 4 × 8 feet, and the saw takes about ⅛ inch, so cut the first piece at exactly 24 inches and check what is left for the next. The width tolerance is in the dimensions guide. Many home-improvement stores will make straight cuts on a full sheet if you would rather not wrestle one at home.
How to Build a Cornhole Board, Step by Step
The order matters: the hole goes in before the top is attached, and all the sanding is done before any finish. Do each step on both boards before moving to the next.
1.Cut the Lumber and the Plywood
Mark each cut with the speed square, cut on the waste side of the line, and cut identical parts back to back so they match. Cut the parts in the cut list, then pencil the letter on each piece. Lay the frame parts out on the plywood to confirm everything fits before you fasten anything.
2.Cut the Hole in the Top
Do this while the plywood is still loose on the bench — it is far easier to hold, cut and sand than a finished board. Draw a centerline down the length of the top, then mark the hole’s center 9 inches from one short edge. That edge is the back of the board. Draw a 6-inch circle around the center with a compass or a nail-and-string trammel (a 3-inch radius). The hole placement diagram shows where everything sits.
Drill a starter hole just inside the circle and cut with the jigsaw, keeping the blade on the waste side — the inside — of the line so the hole starts slightly small. Then sand out to the line until the hole measures 6 inches across in two directions. A 6-inch hole saw or a router on a circle jig makes a cleaner edge, if you have one. Ease the sharp edge of the cut so bags slide through cleanly.
3.Build the Frame
On a flat surface, stand the two side rails (A) on edge and set the end rails (B) between them so the outside measures 48 × 24 inches. Dry-fit first. Then glue each joint, clamp it and drive two 3-inch screws through the side rail into the end of the end rail, pre-drilled and countersunk so the 2×4s do not split.
Measure the two diagonals: when they match, the frame is square. Fit the center brace (C) halfway along the frame the same way. The hole will sit clear of both the back rail and the brace. Check that the top edges of all the pieces sit level with each other.
4.Attach the Top
Spread glue along the top edges of the rails and brace and lay the plywood on with its hole at the end you want as the back. Line up all four edges flush, clamp, and drive 1½-inch screws through the plywood into the frame roughly every 6 inches, countersunk just below the surface. Wipe off glue squeeze-out straight away, and let the glue set for the time on the bottle before you flip the board.
5.Make and Mount the Legs
Round the top corners of each leg (D) with a 1¾-inch radius so it can swing inside the frame. Drill the pivot hole centered 1¾ inches from the rounded end. Mount each leg on the inside face of a side rail, about 4 inches from the back end, with the pivot centered on the rail’s height (1¾ inches down from its top edge). Pass the carriage bolt through the rail and the leg, and finish it with a washer and a wing nut or lock nut on the inner side.
Fit a stop so each leg locks upright when it is opened and cannot fold under load — a block fixed inside the frame for the leg to rest against, or a second bolt. Fold and unfold both legs to check they clear the frame and each other.
6.Set and Check the Heights
Stand the board on a flat floor with the legs open. The back edge should measure 12 inches from the floor to the top surface, and the front edge is the depth of the frame plus the top: 3½ + ½ = 4 inches with ½-inch plywood, right at the top of the 3-to-4-inch range. A thicker top on this frame would push the front over it, so check it against the range in the board height guide. If the back reads off, trim the legs or shim them; the slope follows from those two heights (how the angle works).
7.Sand Everything
Take the legs off and sand in stages: 80 grit to level any seam where the top meets the rails, 120 grit, then 220 grit for the surface. Sand the top with the grain, ease every edge and corner, and smooth the edge of the hole. Fill the screw heads with wood filler, let it dry, sand it flush and wipe off the dust before you finish.
8.Apply the Finish
Prime, paint the frame and top, then seal the playing surface with a clear coat. Apply thin coats rather than one thick one — thick coats run, stay tacky and leave a surface that plays unevenly — and sand lightly between coats with fine paper. Finish the underside and the legs too, and let the last coat cure fully before any bag lands on it. Nothing requires a particular product; the goal is a smooth, even, durable surface. Our wooden boards guide covers finishes and protecting a board outdoors.
9.Check It Before You Play
Refit the legs and go through the regulation checklist: length, width, hole size and placement, and both heights. Press down on the back to confirm the legs do not move, and compare the two boards — a pair should match. When they do, set them up 27 feet apart; the board distance guide shows how to measure it.
Build Tips and Common Mistakes
Do
- Build both boards together, so cut lengths and heights match
- Dry-fit every part before you glue it
- Pre-drill and countersink near the ends of a 2×4
- Cut the hole while the top is still loose
- Screw the legs fixed if the boards will not need to fold — simpler and sturdier
Avoid
- Forgetting the top’s thickness when you size the legs
- Measuring the front edge from the top of the frame instead of from the ground
- Leaving the top proud of the rails, or a rough patch under the paint
- Thick paint coats on the playing surface
- Building on warped or wet lumber — it will move after you assemble it
Build or Buy?
Building gets you boards sized and finished the way you want, and it is a satisfying project if you already own the saws and a sander. If you do not, the tools and the time can outweigh the saving. Our guides to regulation cornhole boards and the best cornhole sets cover the buying route.
Building Cornhole Boards FAQ
How much wood do I need to build two cornhole boards?
Two 24 by 48 inch pieces of plywood and four 8-foot 2x4 studs. A 4 by 8 foot sheet cuts four tops, so one sheet is more than enough for a pair. Each board uses two studs: 48 + 21 + 21 inches from the first and 48 + 21 + 11½ + 11½ inches from the second.
How long should the legs be?
With legs pivoting on a bolt through the middle of the rail and a rounded top end, leg length is 12 inches minus the thickness of the top, which is 11½ inches with ½-inch plywood. Build one, stand the board on a flat floor and check that the back edge reads 12 inches from the floor to the playing surface, then trim or shim if it does not.
Should I cut the hole before or after attaching the top?
Before. A loose sheet of plywood is much easier to hold, cut and sand than a finished board, and you can sand the edge of the hole smooth without a frame in the way.
What is the best tool for cutting the 6-inch hole?
A jigsaw following a drawn circle is what most people have. A 6-inch hole saw or a router on a circle jig gives a cleaner edge. Whichever you use, cut just inside the line and sand out to it, so the hole finishes at exactly 6 inches across.
Can I use homemade cornhole boards in a tournament?
Events look at the finished board rather than who built it, but each event follows its own rulebook, so check yours. Measure the board against the regulation figures before you enter.
What finish should I use on the playing surface?
No particular product is required. Primer and paint under a clear coat is a common combination. Whatever you choose, apply thin coats, sand lightly between them, and let the last coat cure fully so the surface is smooth and even.
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